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ASIA

Japan travel guide

When to go, what to do, and why you’ll love it

A pagoda overlooking Mount Fuji
A pagoda overlooking Mount Fuji
GETTY IMAGES
The Times

Few countries get people dreaming quite like Japan. Despite the weight of these monumental expectations, it really doesn’t disappoint. From the buzz of its cities to its temples and shrines, its eruptions of cherry blossom to its soothing hot springs, the country offers a feast for every one of your senses. Having been closed off to tourists for more than 200 years, Japan evolved differently from other countries. This singular approach to life is what differentiates it today, and what allowed it to go from near-isolation to creating the bullet train in just under a century.

Today, Japanese culture and inventions are found around the world, but it doesn’t take long to realise that not everything has been exported. Expect to encounter food, traditions and whole cities that you’ve never heard of, alongside more familiar evergreen destinations such as Kyoto and Tokyo. Japan has everything you could hope for, yet far more than you could ever imagine.

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What to do

The much-touted Golden Route from Tokyo to Kyoto is popular for a reason — there’s no better introduction to Japan for a first-timer than riding the bullet train (shinkansen) from the country’s futuristic capital to some of its most spectacular natural and architectural highlights.

With four times more people than London, Tokyo caters to everyone, with options from its unashamedly peculiar maid cafés and ramen joints to Michelin-starred sushi. Around the coast, mighty Mount Fuji is a common stop on the route west, while the ancient capital at Nara is a spectacular Unesco world heritage site famous for its deer herds as well as its colossal, centuries-old wooden temples.

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The gritty party city of Osaka comes next, offering Japan’s best nightlife after a day spent exploring the dozens of temples and shrines in nearby pristine Kyoto. From there it’s only a short hop to Kobe, home of the renowned beef, and Himeji, arguably the finest castle in the country.

Explore further afield and it soon becomes clearer that Japan is not a small country. You’ll find varied landscapes with active volcanoes on Kyushu, tropical islands in Okinawa, and skiing on Hokkaido. The Golden Route may feel unmissable, but it’s only one coast on the largest of Japan’s nearly 7,000 islands.

Where to stay

Almost every hotelier in the world has representation in Japan these days, with several luxe brands such as Conrad and Aman saving their very best iterations for Osaka and Tokyo respectively.

While those hotels certainly won’t come cheap, if money isn’t an obstacle then seek out a high-end Japanese-owned property. Establishments such as Gora Kadan in Hakone, near Mount Fuji, have been converted from imperial summer houses to fantastical luxury accommodation. Unapologetically Japanese, these can be rich in tradition and offer the unique experience that is the extensive, regal kaiseki dinner.

For those with a more conservative budget, humble ryokans are found nationwide. These inns often provide hyper-local experiences, with elaborate meals and access to hot-spring baths, known as onsens. Nights are spent sleeping on futons on tatami mat floors and, while they might not be the most comfortable for the uninitiated, staying at least one night is a rite of passage.

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If you are looking for something smaller and more budget-friendly, Japan is the pioneer of the business hotel; think a Travelodge or Premier Inn, but with less than half the space. You’ll find Toyoko Inn and Daiwa Roynet are ubiquitous across the country.

Want something smaller still? Larger cities still operate the famous capsule hotels, where guests stay in a space not much larger than a coffin. It goes without saying that claustrophobics need not apply.

To get you started, here’s our collection of the best hotels in Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto.

Don’t miss

While Tokyo offers a vision of Japan’s future and Kyoto a crystallised encapsulation of its past, nowhere helps visitors understand Japanese people as they are today better than Hiroshima.

It seems right that Unesco made the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park one of its early Japanese inscriptions. After all, it was here that global warfare and politics changed forever on August 6, 1945, when the bomb known as Little Boy became the first nuclear weapon dropped on mankind.

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Today, Hiroshima is a vibrant, buzzy city and, if they had not preserved the park as a memorial to that terrible day, there would be few clues about its dark past. The on-site museum is by turns fascinating and horrifying, but presented in admirably neutral prose, with testimony from survivors and explanations of the dreadful science behind it all.

The memorial and museum would be reason enough to reach this corner of Honshu, but modern Hiroshima also has some of the best street food in the country, with its version of okonomiyaki (a sort of pancake) locked in an eternal battle for supremacy with the Osaka version. Tucking into plenty of both seems like a reasonable way to decide for yourself.

Meanwhile, just outside the city, the Itsukushima Shinto shrine is also on Unesco’s hallowed list — its huge vermillion torii gate standing in the Seto Inland Sea is officially regarded as one of the best views in Japan.

Travel around the country is made more affordable – and convenient – if you buy a Japan Rail Pass ahead of visiting (they cannot be purchased in the country), which will allow you to enjoy unlimited travel on the majority of Japan’s cross-country trains. There are three different options to choose between: a seven, 14 or 21-day pass and you’ll quickly make your money back if you’re planning on visiting multiple cities on your trip. Book your pass well before you travel and then, upon arrival in Japan, get it validated at a ticket office – usually with green signage – at any of the major train stations. You can also reserve seats beside the luggage rails; essential if you’ve got a big suitcase.

Best time to visit

It all depends on what you plan to do in Japan. Cherry blossom season occurs in March and April, and is so popular for domestic travel that you’ll want to plan and book months ahead to secure accommodation. Peak summer months of July and August can be stiflingly hot, particularly in cities, and may therefore be unpleasant if you’re not used to the heat and humidity. For the peak spectrum of autumnal foliage, aim for October and November; temperatures should still be fairly mild. Skiers heading to the northern islands should aim for the winter months, while those heading south to Okinawa can enjoy balmy weather pretty much year-round.

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Best time to visit Japan

FAQs

Is it easy to visit Mount Fuji?
Remarkably so. Go during the official climbing season, which runs from July to September. The majority of hikers looking to summit at dawn stay overnight in spartan cabins on the volcano. Seeking less of a challenge? Take a bus to the end of the road and complete the climb in a single day.

How can I do Japan on a budget?
In the past, travel to Japan was notoriously expensive, but the devaluing of the yen has made it more accessible. Street food and the remarkable, bizarre selections inside convenience stores can help you to save huge sums of money on meals.

Currency
Yen

Take me there

Inspired to visit Japan but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from BA Holidays and Expedia, as well as the best tours of Japan from our trusted partners.

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