© essevu / shutterstock.com
Table of Contents
Abruzzo is home to two DOCG – Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Colline Teramane and Terre Tollesi/Tullum – as well as seven DOC wine designations. The red Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, and the white wine appellation Trebbiano d'Abruzzo are the most notable, followed by the lesser-known Controguerra.
The star grape varieties of the area are the native red Montepulciano and white Trebbiano. Supporting roles are played by a few international varieties such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and natives such as Sangiovese, Passerina, Pecorino and Cococciola. The usual maturation process for Abruzzo wine is in oak however, the Montepulciano Cerasuolo is aged in stainless steel.
History of Abruzzo winemaking
Winemaking traditions in Abruzzo date back to the sixth century BC thanks to the Etruscans, who played a major role in introducing viniculture to the area. At that time Abruzzo's vineyards were generally focused around the Peligna valley in the province of L'Aquila.
However, there is evidence that vine growing goes back as far as the fourth century BC, when a sweet, Moscato-style grape called Apianae was grown. It is also believed that when Hannibal made his epic journey over the Alps, his soldiers were given Abruzzo wine from Teramo (historically known as Pretuzi).
Unfortunately, viniculture was sidelined for many centuries as the Abruzzo region's population went into decline. The last 40-50 years have seen a renaissance in winemaking through the endeavors of co-operative wineries concentrated in the Chieti province and today, approximately 80 percent of wine is produced by co-operatives. Historically a poor area, Abruzzo is now flourishing and continually gaining economic ground.
With the revival in viniculture came bulk wine, which dominated the region for a considerable period. However the region has now revamped its image, towards producing more quality-driven wines, with an increase in boutique wineries.
Today, Abruzzo has approximately 32,000 hectares (79,000 acres) of land planted to vines, with a declining annual production of 290 million liters. Nonetheless, in terms of quantitative wine production it remains Italy's fifth most prominent wine region after Sicily, Puglia, Veneto and Emilia-Romagna.
Abruzzo terroir
The geographical makeup of Abruzzo is quite remarkable. A rugged, mountainous region with a lengthy coastline, its lush, green landscape is scattered with national parks and forests. Abruzzo is ideally situated between the Adriatic sea to the east, and the Apennine mountain range and the Maiella massif to the west. The region is home to Gran Sasso, one of Italy's highest peaks at 2912m (9554ft).
It is not surprising that Abruzzo provides a perfect haven for grapegrowing. Vines flourish thanks to the terroir, the abundance of sunshine, the generous rainfall and a variable climate. On the coast it is warm and dry on the coast; inland it is more continental (hot in summer and cold in winter).
Furthermore, the high altitudes see dramatic diurnal temperature variations. When combined with cool mountain air currents, they moderate the temperatures in the vineyards situated on the slopes. This provides a perfect mesoclimate for the vines. The most favorable growing conditions are found in the low hills of Teramo, the Colline Teramane.
The majority of grapes grown come from the hilly areas of Abruzzo. 75 percent of vineyards lie in Chieti province. The remainder are situated in Pecara, Teramo and L'Aquila. Abruzzo viticulture can feature pergolas, where the vines are trained upwards towards narrow arbors. This style accounts for approximately 80 percent of the vines, while the rest are new and planted in rows.
