three-day hike from verzasca to maggia valley
going on a three-day hike in Ticino? that’s what frank decided to spend our first adventure in absolute freedom. it was a happy and challenging thought at same time: Three days crossing from Verzasca valley into Maggia valley, over 9 hours, 23 kilometers, going 1643 meters up and 2048 meters down. Two massive backpacks with supplies for three days and an escape for me from the exhausting weeks of moving.
View into Val d'Osola
Day 1 - brione to capanna osola
On our way to our first milestone called Capanna Osola
We woke up at quarter past five to catch the first train that would take us into a gorgeous valley called Verzasca. By the time we got there, the sun was already high above the sky bringing along an oppressive heat. This was the first time where going with the intuition brought us to the best decisions. Even though we knew there was a long hike ahead of us and we probably should get going, we started our adventure with a dip into crystal clear glacier water that peacefully slid along the canyon. Having cleared our minds from all the thoughts and tiredness we brought with us, we finally were ready to get back to the state we both dreamed of living in.
hello little friend
To get ready for the adventures, we got traditional Italian pizza. When we arrived in Brione, a trailer waited for us to get us homemade vegan ice cream out of wild strawberries and lemon ginger. It brought us along the hiking trail through the valley of Osola to our first milestone: A cozy little brick cabin called Capanna Osola (1418 m.a.s.l) embedded in a magical larch forest surrounded by cows with great hair and – for whatever reason – a donkey in the late evening.
Frank crossing one of our favorite bridges on the way
A small group of three mid-aged men and a younger woman were sitting outside the cabin, already smiling at us when we entered the fencing that kept the mammals from the cabin. “Hey guys you made it”, one of the men said with his warm-hearted voice. The other three welcomed us with an amusing smile while eating and drinking their provisions for the first night. We started doing the same with our burgers from Tibits we brought from Lucerne.
Frank reaching our first milestone
The sun went down quickly and with the upcoming strong mountain breeze surrounding the cabin, we moved inside before the coldness took over us. There was warm dimmed light on the interior, showing us a well equipped kitchen, a small wood oven, three dining tables and two floors of overnight accommodations.
It was no sooner than I started talking with the younger woman called Mia when one of the men flinched inside, telling me one of the cows made her way over the fence, stealing food from our backpacks. It probably was the quickest I ever went outside a hut. Luckily enough, the backpack was just slobbered by the cow, but the things were still there. The cow peacefully took her way to a little open wood shed. We all started laughing when a newly arrived camper then tried to chase off the entire herd of cows with a broom while Mia took a misstep into…well you probably know what… of the one cow that went inside our place earlier. While watching the first stars appearing in the navy blue sky, I started playing songs on my ukulele that Frank and I brought with us. After a short while, Mia joined our music session, and we started singing and playing Coldplay songs into the late night, talking about dreams and laughing about adventures. We all knew it was the start of a new friendship.
Day 2 - alpine crossing into maggia valley, capanna alpe spluga
The first rays of sunshine were already seeking their way through the small windows of the attic when I was awakened by familiar sounds. The smell of hot coffee came to me and brought back the memories of what a wonderful place we spent the night. Mia, who was sleeping next to us, yawned a well-rested good morning to me. There was no sign of Frank. Slowly I climbed down the wooden ladder and tiptoed into the kitchen. There I was surprised by Frank, who had already prepared breakfast for us and greeted me with a warm hug. How could life be so peaceful and full of happiness?
The other hikers had already left the hut before us when Frank and I also set off for our second destination: Capanna Spluga at 1838 m.a.s.l. The way there led us steeply up the mountain to above the tree line at an altitude of 2225 m.a.s.l. Even though the temperature was over 30 degrees, we were constantly accompanied by a light breeze, which made the climb easier. On the way, we encountered many small water sources, fresh-smelling conifers, and alpine wildflowers.
We walked over big boulders and looked for crystals. In fact, some of the rocks were so clear that you could see through them. On a wonderful viewpoint, we played the ukulele and dreamed away the afternoon. Only in the late afternoon, did we reach the highest point of our hike and the gateway from the Verzasca Valley to the Maggia Valley called Bocchetta Canòva. The view into both valleys at the same time was tremendous and one of the most beautiful viewing platforms Frank and I had ever seen. It was home to many marmots, although we only heard them.
Bocchetta Canòva
On the other side of the mountain, the vegetation was a bit denser. The rocky landscape was now replaced more and more by dry grass and small shrubs, which made finding the trail a challenge at times. Where the trail markings on the Verzasca Valley side were very clear, they had not been repainted on this side for quite some time. After a good hour, hungry and already a bit tired, we reached our second stage destination. Mia, who followed the same route, greeted us happily and we told each other what we had experienced on the hike. The Capanna Alpe Spluga is run by a lovely family that offers dinner and breakfast in addition to the cabin service. The overnight domicile consisted of several stone huts and was the starting point of many hikes. Therefore, the hut was also well-occupied. Frank and I decided to spend this night in our own brought tent. It was much milder on this side of the mountain.
Capanna Alpe Spluga (1838 m.a.s.l.)
On the Alpe Spluga above the cabin there was the most magical swing we had ever seen. It offered a view over the entire delta of the Maggia Valley, which in the evening showed up in the most beautiful pastel colors. We laughed, sang and played music together all evening. Rocked in threes, gave a concert at the host family of the hut, were offered beer, and reminded us how wonderful adventures can be when you put all your worries aside and just go for it. Mia told us about all the wonderful places she wanted to travel to this year. Of past adventures and fulfilled dreams. What a main character. She was an inspiration in herself and you just had to love her. So ended one of the most beautiful evenings I've ever had in the mountains and Frank and I fell asleep peacefully to the whispering of a nearby mountain stream.
day 3 - capanna alpe spluga to giumaglio
The next morning Mia surprised us with a whole bowl full of wild blueberries, which she had picked in the early morning hours. The Capanna Alpe Spluga was already very busy early in the morning since one should start long hikes supposedly early in the morning. The three of us, however, enjoyed the now deserted hut with homemade breakfast until late in the morning. Mia asked us if she could join our hiking trip today, to which we happily agreed.
Wild blueberries to our perfect breakfast bowls
The path to the Maggia valley was surrounded by wild blueberry, raspberry, and blackberry bushes, where we strengthened ourselves for the upcoming descent. The Capanna Alpe Spluga was still at an alpine altitude above the tree line, which meant for us a descent of 1485 meters. We had a lot to laugh about, enjoyed the gorgeous view, and took pictures that would remind us forever and ever of this wonderful time. When we descended the last stairs to Giumaglio in the late afternoon, we all had trembling legs, on which we at times could hardly hold ourselves anymore because of how much we laughed together.
Giumaglio was a small quiet Ticino village well nestled in the Maggia Valley. The small streets led us past typical Ticino stone houses, showed us beautiful garden flowers and a view of an impressively tall waterfall. It was the perfect place to be re-introduced into civilization. We went for a swim in a small riverbed just below the waterfall and were delighted to find such wonderful places in Switzerland. Frank and I liked Giumaglio so much that we decided without further ado to revisit this place at later times.
Waterfall in Giumaglio
The sun soon set behind the Bocchetta Canòva and left us in peaceful dusk, in which we also said goodbye to Mia with heavy hearts. After some big hugs and tears of joy, Frank and I made our way to a cute nearby campsite called Cordevio, where we spent one last night in the open air before setting off for new adventures.
Mia and me on the way to Giumaglio
If there’s one thing I’ve learned from this trip then it is to never ask too many questions about whether it is possible or whatever could happen on the way. Doubts like these lead to a dead end of not even trying. Listen to your heart and if it feels right, craft a good plan and just go for it.
With 🐝 by Evelyne.
Useful information
Feeling inspired? Here’s some information you might find useful if you would like to follow our footsteps for the hike.
Reservations for the mountain cabins:
Finally, our Campsite close to Giumaglio:
