Alhama de Granada, Spain: my kind of town

Head to the town of Alhama de Granada for its picturesque surroundings, affordable tapas and Spanish charm.

Alhama de Granada, Spain: my kind of town
The surrounding region is among the most attractive in all of Spain Credit: Photo: GETTY

Why Alhama de Granada?

We first stumbled across this gorgeous town one sunny afternoon four years ago. We liked it so much we bought a house there. The town is small, just 6,000 inhabitants, full of charm and character, and beautifully situated on the edge of a gorge. The surrounding countryside is wonderful: rolling wheat fields and olive and almond trees.

What do you miss most when you're away?

Eating on the terrace at La Seguiriya (C/Las Peñas 12; 0034 958 360801; www.laseguiriya.com), a particularly friendly hotel and family-run restaurant with stunning views over the gorge. It’s run by a charming ex-flamenco singer, Paco Moyano, and his wife, Lola. I also miss walking in the gorge, swimming in the river with the kids and watching the swallows and swifts at dusk.

What's the first thing you do when you return?

Go for tapas and a copita, a small glass of local wine or beer, at La Seguiriya.

Where's the best place to stay?

Before we bought our own place and had it fit to live in, we stayed at La Seguiriya.

Where would you meet friends for a drink?

Ochoa Paco (Plaza Independence): depending on the time of year, we sit either on the terrace or inside where they put hot coals under the tables.

Where are your favourite places for lunch?

El Cortijo, beyond the Museo Etnografíco, a place for meat lovers and not for the faint hearted. The meat is reared and prepared on site, with their own home-grown produce. They also hold a matanza, a traditional pig sacrifice.

And for dinner?

There is no specific restaurant I would recommend – in the Granada province you can enjoy a drink on one of the terraces in any of the local, traditional bars, such as El Sibanco, and with that comes up to three tapas, all fantastic and all for just a euro (89p). That is the beauty of this region: fantastic food everywhere. Pay a bit more for your drinks (up to €1.50) and enjoy even more tapas. You don’t really want or need to eat after aperitifs.

Where would you send a first-time visitor?

To the hot springs, especially if you go in the winter when the contrast between the water and the big drop in night-time temperatures is most marked. Also take the 30-minute walk down the gorge to El Ventorro: it stimulates the appetite and walking back helps burn off lunch and prepare you for a siesta.

What would you tell them to avoid?

A couple of the places on the square at the bottom of town lack atmosphere, but there are no pretentious or touristy spots here.

Public transport or taxi?

Everything is within walking distance: there is one bus a day to Granada and taxis to the airport are around €50 (£44).

Handbag or moneybelt?

The town is totally safe: all the children are out on the streets and walk to school, and we can leave our doors open.

What should I take home?

Best bet might be to buy a whole ham from Casa Marin in the lower part of the town just beyond the playground. And there is a fine choice of Fino sherry.

And if I've only time for one shop?

Casa Josefina by the church next to the gorge is good for inexpensive and attractive local ceramics and watercolours and photographs of the region.

  • Richard Bigg runs London’s Camino Bar and Restaurant (020 7841 7331; www.camino.uk.com)