Taqueria Lorena held down a corner of South 24th and East William streets for more than three decades, until a fire in late 2012 shuttered the family business founded by Jose and Carmen Vidrios.
That’s when daughter Lorena, the restaurant’s namesake, started putting a second-generation plan into motion with brother Carlos: They would open a modern, evolutionary Mexican restaurant, the sort of place that Lorena said San Jose hadn’t seen before, as a companion property to the family’s remaining taqueria on North 13th Street.
Both trained at the International Culinary Center in Campbell, then headed into top-tier Silicon Valley kitchens, she at Chez TJ and he at Alexander’s by the Sea. The idea attracted friends Marshall Reid (Alexander’s, Naschmarkt), now the executive chef, and David Pagan, curator of the bar program.
The pandemic and the long permitting, rezoning and construction process gave the quartet plenty of time to develop and fine-tune the comida and cocteles recipes. Finally, this labor of love made its debut as Acopio, which means a reunion or gathering.
Many have applauded the decision to locate this contemporary trailblazer on the East Side, in the McKinley-Bonita neighborhood where the family’s local business began.
“If Adega can have the courage to do it,” Lorena said, referring to the Michelin-starred heritage restaurant in nearby Little Portugal, “why can’t I put a restaurant like this here?”
THE LOOK: Influenced by her ancestors, Lorena asked Studio KDA to design the exterior and interior with geometric Aztec-style elements set against a palette of colors that evoke Mexico — cactus, molcajete, adobe. A planter box of hanging succulents lines the upper wall of the dining room. The result is a fresh look that enlarges the small space and allows the vibrant dishes and cocktails to stand out. There’s seating for 36 inside at tables and the bar and more than 40 on the front patio.
THE VIBE: Expect a good mix of neighborhood residents and other food lovers eager to check out this hidden gem. It’s a high-energy spot, especially when every table inside is filled, and diners are sharing “have you tried this?” recommendations. For a quieter meal, make a reservation on a Wednesday or Thursday or ask for one of the outdoor tables.
THE FOOD: Soft, supple tortillas — handmade from blue corn nixtamalized onsite — star in the Tortillas de Casa appetizer ($10), served with frijoles puercos, queso fresco, chiltomate salsa and salsa verde cruda, and the trio of tacos, Arabes ($6), Vegetal ($8) and Camarones ($10). In the first, the Lebanese-spiced grilled pork pays homage to the Arabic influence that led to Mexico’s famous spit-roasted al pastor. An interesting mix of marinated mushrooms and hibiscus fills the Vegetal. And the seafood taco on this night was a zesty one with chile-garlic shrimp, avocado and habanero-onion vinaigrette.
Another starter, the Panela ala Plancha ($9), tops grilled cheese with tomatillo jam and a refreshing salad of watermelon radish. A light choice is the Betabeles Asados ($11), with roasted beets and an herb salad sitting on a bed of the salty, creamy Latin cheese, Requesón.
Acopio’s signature dish has quickly become the Mole de Pato ($29), a chile adobo confit duck leg served with pistachio mole and seared, spiced masa cake, the latter a riff on a Vidrio family recipe. A pomegranate seed and bourbon demiglace finishes the dish.
Other entrees on this ever-changing menu — look for seasonal updates and new dishes soon — include the Birria de Cordero ($33), a braised lamb shank in a dusky, complex consomme, and the Caldo de Camarones ($25), with head-on Gulf shrimp swimming in shrimp stock with heirloom carrots, chayote, celery, tomato, onion and jalapeño. Epazote and cilantro add the aromatics.
On the inaugural dessert menu, Acopio has decided to feature Calabaza en Tacha ($10), candied squash topped with a citrus crema and pepita brittle. It’s sweet and easily shared.
THE DRINKS: Pagan designed the cocktails (all $14) with chef Reid’s seasonal menu in mind. He suggests pairing La Fogta (Mezcal, bourbon, cinnamon, black walnut) with the Mole de Pato and El Milpero (Mexican whiskey, hibiscus, Aztec chocolate) with Carne de Res. La Sirena (mezcal, hibiscus, ginger) complements the mushroom-hibiscus taco. And the Nixtarita (Anaheim chile-infused tequila, heirloom corn liquor, agave, lime) enhances Acopio’s spicy version of street corn, Costillas de Elote.
Among the bestsellers is La Ex (sous vide pineapple and jalapeño tequila with pickled pineapple and cilantro oil). Diners will also find housemade aguas frescas, eight beers on tap and nine in bottles or cans.
DON’T MISS: That Mole de Pato is a stunner, beautifully cooked and composed, texturally interesting and Instagram-gorgeous.
GOOD TO KNOW: If you desire a little more heat, there’s an extra-spicy salsa available off-menu. Just ask.
DETAILS: Open from 5 to 10 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday, with reservations strongly suggested but walk-ins welcome. 399 S. 24th St., San Jose; www.acopiosj.com
