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Ceviche is one of the most simple and satisfying summer dishes, but not all ceviche is created equal. Too many renditions are left to marinate for hours, resulting in wan fish that tastes more of stale lime juice than the sea. What about a version that gives powerhouse flavor without compromising the delicacy of sashimi-quality seafood?
Enter aguachile. It's exactly what it sounds like: a style of serving pristine seafood by simply immersing it in “chile water.” And of all the ceviche relatives, it's arguably the easiest and most refreshing (not to mention, as many Mexicans will tell you, a great hangover cure).
Although it’s become ubiquitous throughout Mexico—and is gaining traction in the US—aguachile hails from the northern Pacific coast of Mexico, the states of Sinaloa and Sonora in particular. It’s most commonly made with shrimp, but any other shellfish (especially horizontally-sliced sea scallops) work well, as do octopus, finfish and even beef (try a raw beef tenderloin aguachile in place of your next carpaccio).
More than the type of fish used, aguachile depends on the contrast between the cool purity of the seafood and the marinade’s bracing heat and flavor. To achieve that, the fish should only get a brief stay in the sauce as opposed to an extended marinade. And the fish should get an ample amount of liquid—they should really swim.
Impeccably fresh seafood is, of course, a must, and not just for flavor and texture; contrary to the beliefs of some corner-cutters, the lime juice won’t kill most bacteria or parasites. The sauce—usually just a blend of fresh chile and lime—is simple, but balance is key: The chile doesn’t just lend heat, but, along with a little olive oil and/or just water (some cooks also add cucumber, cilantro, or fish stock), helps temper the acidity of straight lime juice.
Like ceviche, aguachile lends itself to personalization. Aguachile negro is a ‘black’ version (ranging from grey to jet-black) which gets its unexpected color and deeper flavor usually from Maggi liquid seasoning (popular in Mexican households) or soy sauce (a traditional ingredient after centuries of Chinese immigration), though many other things can be blended in: Worcestershire, charred dried chiles, canned chipotles, squid ink, even burnt corn tortilla. Aguachile rojo uses dried chile de árbol, piquín, or chiltepin in place of fresh chiles.
Regardless of your personal twist, know avocado and thin-sliced red onion are always welcome. So are saltines, crispy fried or baked corn tortillas, and, of course, a bucket of ice-cold beer.
