Bollito misto (Italian mixed boiled meats)

Method

1. Put the ribs, cheeks, shin/tongue and cotechino in a large pan with the vegetables, spices and a big pinch of salt. Cover with water and bring to a boil over a high heat. Reduce to a low simmer, then cook gently for 2-3 hours, topping up the water as needed to keep the meat submerged.
2. After 2 hours, begin to check the meat – you want it to be completely cooked and very tender. Don’t cook it longer than you needed to, otherwise it will start to turn mushy. When each piece is ready, lift it out of the water and transfer to a bowl, spooning over a little of the liquid to keep from drying out. When everything is cooked, strain the liquid through a fine sieve into a clean saucepan and cover. Reserve the carrots, celery and turnips.
3. Remove the bones from the short ribs. If you’ve used tongue, peel off and discard the tough outer membrane. If you’re using shin, remove the bones if it has any. If you want to make tortellini as well, weigh out roughly 375g of the beef cuts and set aside – this will be the filling. Return the remaining pieces of meat and vegetables to the cooled stock in the fridge and leave for up to 24 hours.
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4. About 1½ hours before you plan to serve, bring the liquid back to a gentle simmer. Add the chicken thighs/legs, cover and poach for 45 minutes, then add the breasts and cook for another 15 minutes. Remove from the heat, return the beef cuts, veg and cotechino to the liquid, then leave for 30 minutes (still covered) to warm through.
5. Strain off enough of the stock for the tortellini (about 1.5 litres), if making, then leave the meats and veg in the pan with a little liquid to keep warm off the heat. When you’re ready to serve, lift out all the meats onto a carving board. Slice the beef, chicken breasts and cotechino and arrange on a platter with the chicken legs and reserved veg. Serve with mostarda di frutta and/or the sauces of your choice (see Tips).