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Arriving by air through a steep valley blanketed in trees and cascading waterfalls, landing on Dominica provides a Jurassic Park-like thrill, and first-hand glimpse of why the eastern Caribbean country is called Nature Island. Wildlife-rich rainforests, bubbling natural hot springs, varied hiking trails, and an ocean teeming with fluorescent-colored sea life make it one of the most coveted diving regions in the world. Tourists don’t crowd its city center or quiet mountainside villages like other neighboring countries, giving visitors plenty of opportunity to explore at their own pace. The island also has a wide range of places for travelers to lay their heads–including a mountainside luxury retreat committed to sustainability, and a honeymoon hideaway shrouded by moss-colored mountains and a black sand beach below.
From the commercial capital of Roseau—filled with the buzz of market vendors, bouyon soca and bélé folk music—to lulling fishing villages like Scotts Head that offer up bay views and the fresh catch of the day, there's no shortage of things to do in Dominica whether you want to get active—or slow way down.
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Getting to and around Dominica
Dominica lies in the eastern Caribbean Sea, with Guadeloupe to the north, and Martinique to the south. There are two airports: Canefield or Douglas-Charles, where most visitors will arrive. Last year, American Airlines launched nonstop flights from Miami International airport that fly directly to Dominica daily, from Monday to Sunday, making it the first carrier to do so from the U.S. From the airport, a drive to the capital takes approximately an hour. The 29-mile long island is spread out and mountainous, so it's best to use taxi services from the capital city of Roseau or a hotel. Though car rentals are available, winding roads require special attention behind the wheel. A driving permit that costs $12 is also required, which can be obtained at the airport. For other options, consider a reliable private transportation service like The Master Taxi & Tours Dominica to take you around the island or on personalized tours.
What to do in Dominica
This year, Dominica welcomes the return of a number of cultural festivals that were on pause due to the pandemic. In February, the bacchanalia begins with the island’s spirited carnival celebrations, called Mas Dominik. The month-long party includes street parades, calypso competitions and fetes (parties) that summon the ingenuity and cultural traditions of enslaved Africans who created their own pre-Lent celebrations in the 18th century. In April, the island’s rich Creole traditions come alive for Jazz ‘N Creole, a family-friendly event held each year at Fort Shirley in Cabrits National Park. 2023 will mark the 12th anniversary of the festival, where jazz and Creole music echo throughout the park.
For those who prefer to get active instead of lounging on the beach all day, Dominica has no shortage of activities. Hikers can take their pick from 300 miles of trails that provide pathways for all levels. Morne Trois National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site located in a fertile valley in the south central part of the island, has nearly 300 miles of footpaths, waterfalls, and a region of boiling mud ponds and small geysers to explore.
As one of the most coveted diving regions in the world, Dominica offers ocean enthusiasts opportunities to glide through underwater volcanoes, pinnacles, and lively reefs. Some of the most popular diving sites include UNESCO World Heritage Site Scotts Head in the southwest, where schools of soldier fish and anemone await. For snorkeling, the calm waters on the west coast at Champagne Reef—which gets its name from the champagne-like bubbles that float on its surface from underwater fissures—provide shallow waters to explore.
Above water, take a rowboat ride with Cobra Tours down the fauna-filled Indian River—which one served as a major route for the Indigenous Kalingo people. January to March kicks off the inaugural season of the Waitukubuli Sea Trail, the only sea kayaking trail in the Caribbean. The seven-day, 37-mile adventure takes kayakers to the western side of the island to visit neighboring communities and natural wonders along the way.
For a bit of rest and rejuvenation, head to one of the island’s therapeutic waters and sulphur springs. Not far from the capital of Roseau, the tiny village of Wotten Waven is well-known for its sulphur springs and mud pools. Or, feel the thrill of clear mountain water rushing from a 40 foot waterfall at Emerald Pool, located in Morne Trois Piton National Park. The pool’s waters, surrounded by a rainforest, are a great retreat on hot days.
Where to stay
Perched on a mountain ridge of the southernmost part of the island, Coulibri Ridge is a 200-acre, eco-friendly luxury resort. The 14-suite, off-the-grid enclave is a shining example of how natural elements can create ultra-sustainable futures for hotels. The 295-acre property is powered by solar energy, and rainwater is collected and purified for use in guest suites and the two chlorine-free pools. Rooms are accented with recyclable teakwood and include full kitchens and outdoor terraces—some of which lend views of Martinique in the distance.
Another cliffside retreat on the northwest coast, Secret Bay, has long been a favorite retreat for couples because of its intimate seclusion and location on a lush hillside. The resort consists of 12 residential-style villas, each with a private plunge pool and dedicated villa host. Take a ride down to the resort’s black sand beach or pool, both cloaked in mist and a fertile rainforest. Yoga classes are offered at the riverside Bwa Mang Wellness Pavilion, and spa treatments await at their treetop Gommier Spa. Zing Zing, their open-air restaurant sits on a cliff edge and offers dishes that highlight wild herbs grown on the property and the catch of the day from nearby fishermen.
Pagua Bay House is a laidback boutique hotel that feels like a home rather than a hotel, and is located just 10 minutes from Douglas-Charles airport. 6 oceanfront cabanas have vaulted ceilings, breezy terraces, and sea-foam slatted walls. Some suites include private plunge pools and six-foot soaking tubs. A casual bar and grill serving up dishes like coconut curry vegetables and chimichurri pork loin lends itself to panoramic views of the Atlantic ocean.
What to eat
At Keepin' It Real, located on Toucari Beach on the northwest coast, seafood sourced from fisherman, farmers, and the market in Portsmouth provide some of the freshest dishes the island has to offer, including grilled lobster and mahi, served alongside rice, plantains and a green salad. Enjoying the sunset in this small fishing village with a potent rum punch in hand is one of the absolute best things to do in Dominica. Head to the historical French Quarter of Roseau to experience Creole cuisine in a fine dining setting at Great Old House. Start with tender fish cakes, then for a main, a fiery citrus tamarind jerk pork is not to be missed.
Nearby in an historic old home at Old Stone Grill and Bar, croquettes of dasheen—a local provision similar to a yam—is a favorite on the island. Antique furniture lines an open air verandah where diners enjoy dishes of grilled mahi mahi served with herbed salsa and hearty stewed chicken. For island delicacies during breakfast and lunch, visit chef Pearl in Rosseau for her infectious laughter and flavorful dishes. On Saturdays, the special breakfast menu at Pearl’s Cuisine includes accras (saltfish fritters), bakes (fried dumplings), and cocoa tea that typically sells out by noon—so get there early.
