Review: El Califa

Tell us about your first impressions when you arrived.
This upscale taqueria has multiple outposts around the city but the Condesa location attracts the most tourists. The two-level space is filled with black square tables and has a slightly European feel, likely due to the EDM blasting from the stereo.

What was the crowd like?
Lots of well-groomed people who prefer eating their tacos in a posh setting than on street.

What should we be drinking?
Domestic beers turned into Michelada Cubanas; sodas.

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss.
El Califa is one of a few big-name taquerias that's bringing the brazen street classic to a button-down, posh format. The menu is expansive, focusing beef tacos (sirloin, flank, and rib-eye) as well as al pastor. Beyond that, there are quesadilla-like gringas—two flour tortillas with meat and cheese, and costras, a crispy dish of cheese-covered meat that's flipped like a pancake so the cheese will caramelize. There are a few vegetarian options, too, and the beans, grilled onions, and chicharron de queso round of the meal. Don't overlook the salsa roster, especially the charred vegetable tatemada.

And how did the front-of-house folks treat you?
The ample staff happily ferries around trays of salsas, extra limes, ice, and whatever else you need.

What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here?
It's easy to dislike El Califa for turning the populist street taqueria experience into a posh and overly priced one (everything here is three times more expansive than what's charged at any other taqueria in the city), but the quality of food can't be beat. If you fly in late and are too tired to do any exploring, or are traveling with germaphobes who don't trust Mexico City streetfood, El Califa is a solid option.