One of the best experiences you can try on your trip to Guatemala is doing the Acatenango overnight hike. Here is my experience doing this tough yet rewarding hike and watching Volcán de Fuego erupting up close.
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When I decided to go to Guatemala, I asked friends what experiences I shouldn’t miss, and hiking the Acatenango appeared to be an absolute must. So I started researching this hike and decided I had to do it.
Over the weeks before my hike, both before going to Guatemala and after getting there, I happened to talk with many people about this famous hike. The recurring theme was “it was so tough I was afraid I wouldn’t make it,” or something along those lines. I only met one person who mentioned it being moderate, so I considered her an outlier.
With these accounts in mind, I mentally prepared for a tough hike. And it was. But I couldn’t be happier and more grateful that I did it. So let me tell you all about it.
Note: You’ll find all the practical information about the hike at the end of this article.
My Toughest Hike Yet
Firstly, I’m not a hiker. I’m quite a fit person by nature, but I don’t exercise as regularly as I would like to. I’ve done other hikes, but nothing longer than half a day. I mean, I even walked one of the longest Caminos de Santiago, the Via de la Plata, but that was mostly flat. So you couldn’t say I was ready for this.
Add to my little hiking experience a few external factors that made it that much harder. Firstly, it just so happened that I got my period on the morning of the hike. Perfect timing. To the men reading this, it may not mean much, but ladies, I know you feel me.
Doing anything past the bare minimum for survival on day one of your period is already an achievement. Hiking a 3.600-meter volcano (at base camp) will make you feel like Wonder Woman. But the struggle is real.
Secondly, it just so happened that, upon departure, I found myself walking with the first group (out of four or five groups of roughly six people). That was the motivated, fit group. And well, I wasn’t lacking the motivation, but I did lack the physical fitness. Except, I’m a competitive person. So once I was in the first group, there was no way I was going to fall behind. So I gave it all. I was the last one in the group most of the time, but I kept going.
My lungs felt like they were about to give up at any time right before we would stop for a break. Every rest stop was a godsend, yet it always felt too short. I had period cramps and was sweating despite the chilly temperatures. Still, my legs felt unusually strong, so at least I had that to my advantage.
Getting to Acatenango Base Camp
We drove roughly one hour from the agency in Antigua to the trailhead in Aldea La Soledad. The trail begins at an altitude of roughly 2.400 meters, which leaves you with an altitude gain of 1.200 meters. And luckily so, because I don’t think I could have handled more.
The hike to base camp took us roughly 4.5 hours. We started hiking at around 10.30 AM and got to base camp at 3 PM. Nobody else showed up for over half an hour after us, that’s how motivated my group was.
The first part of the hike was the toughest. The path was steep, and I kept falling behind. My legs were strong, but after literally one minute of walking uphill, I would run out of breath and feel like a fish out of water for the rest of the time until we had a rest break.
The lunch break halfway felt like a blessing. But I was so tired and worked up for the hike that I couldn’t even finish my meal. I ate half of it and kept the rest for base camp.
As we kept climbing, I met my fellow hikers. They were all so excited and positive about doing the extra sunset hike. Before leaving they had told us about an optional sunset hike from Acatenango base camp to Volcán de Fuego. This hike was not for everyone, as it was very demanding. Our guides would decide who was fit enough to make it once we reached base camp. I wasn’t so sure I would make it. As I struggled up the steep path, I kept wondering if I would even make it to base camp.
As we got closer to base camp, the path got slightly easier, and the last bit was pleasant. After walking through the clouds for a while, the sky cleared, and we could enjoy the breathtaking view. Through the fluffy white clouds, we could catch glimpses of the valley below, so far down I could hardly believe we climbed so high.
Acatenango base camp
I can’t put into words the feeling of happiness and gratitude when I reached base camp. But I had no idea what was still ahead. I sat down and enjoyed watching Volcán de Fuego spit out grey clouds of smoke and ash as I finished my lunch. I felt good. Until I found out where my accommodation was.
The base camp was developed on two levels, and guess who got the cabin on the upper level? Yes, yours truly. That meant every time I had to go to our cabin, I had to hike for five minutes on a slippery, steep path. It may not sound like much, but after 4.5 hours of hiking, I didn’t need that extra climb.
As we sat and watched the volcano erupt, my hiking buddies were all very excited about hiking to Volcán de Fuego, and I let their enthusiasm infect me. I could do it. I could handle an extra six hours of hiking. That’s how long it was supposed to take us to hike to Fuego and back, including one hour at the top, where we would watch the eruptions.
Optional Sunset Hike to Volcán de Fuego
At 4.30 PM, we started the descent to Fuego. Going down felt so good. I felt fit and energized. I was feeling good about the extra hike. Of course, the more we descended, the more we would have to climb back up.
The hike from the Acatenango base camp to Volcán de Fuego consists of a steep descent and an even steeper ascent. Twice, since we had to go back and forth. Add to this the extra difficulty of walking in the dark on the way back, and it suddenly doesn’t seem such a piece of cake.
But we were fast. We descended that first bit in record time and started the climb to Fuego all cheerful and eager to get to the top. The climb got progressively harder, but after what seemed like forever, we found ourselves above the clouds.
Everything was tinted in purple, orange, and red as the sun went down. In front of us, Volcán de Fuego was no longer just spitting ash and smoke. Burning red explosive eruptions were taking place in front of us every few minutes.
My hands were frozen on my phone as I was pointlessly trying to capture that spectacle. But there was no way my phone could capture such terrifying beauty. I was like nothing I had ever experienced before. Suddenly, the cold, the fatigue, and the period cramps, all felt irrelevant. I was looking at the most dramatic and beautiful natural show I had ever seen.
After spending an unknown amount of time watching Volcán de Fuego erupt, we started our descent in the dark. Going down was no easy feat, but we made it, and pretty quickly too. The most difficult part was climbing back up to base camp. The climb seemed never-ending. It was dark, windy, and cold, and I was so tired I could fall asleep standing.
The last 15 minutes felt interminable. Every step drained me. I wanted to just stop and close my eyes. Part of me was wondering why I decided to consciously put myself through all that, but another part was grateful for what I had experienced.
When we finally reached base camp, it was only 8.30 PM. We made it back two hours earlier than planned. Steaming cups of hot chocolate were waiting for us. The sweet warmth of the beverage enveloped me as I sat down on the bench in the dining cabin, my eyes barely open. No hot chocolate ever felt so good.
They gave us food too, but I could barely force myself to get a few bites. I felt hungry, but I didn’t feel like eating; such a weird, conflicting feeling. I finally dragged myself up the hill to our sleeping cabin, certain I would sleep like a baby. That was until 4 AM because, unsurprisingly, we all decided we would wake up to do the sunrise hike too.
Optional Sunrise Hike to the Acatenango Summit
I did not sleep like a baby. I woke up constantly, struggling to turn in the sleeping bag. Usually, I sleep in any condition but, for some reason, my body refused to relax. I would hear Volcán de Fuego erupt loudly and get up to look out the window at the red lava flow on the side of the volcano.
Before 4 AM I woke up and headed down to meet the rest of the group that would do the sunrise hike. I immediately realized the hike up passed by our cabin, so I had to climb back up. I would have happily avoided that.
The climb to the top of Acatenango felt even harder than the climb back from Fuego, if possible. Maybe it was the tiredness from hiking and not sleeping, maybe the slippery path that caused us to take two steps forward and one step back. The trail to the Acatenango summit was mostly made of loose volcanic sand, so our feet would sink and slide back at every step. Plus, it was extremely steep.
After a while of walking in the pitch dark, the sky started to turn deep red and purple on the horizon. The sunrise was already promising well. The hike up took roughly one hour, with frequent stops. Our group was mostly made up of the same extra-motivated people who did the sunset hike, plus a few others.
I couldn’t tell if the sunrise was better than the sunset, but it was an incredible sight. From the Acatenango summit, we could Volcán de Fuego up close and slightly from above as it kept erupting in thick ash clouds. We watched the sun come up from behind Volcán de Agua and stared in awe at the eruption happening every few minutes. The tiredness soon subsided as I stood there, taking in all that beauty. The view was one hundred percent worth the 4 AM wake-up and steep hike in the dark.
The descent back to base camp felt nearly like flying down the side of the mountain. We just let ourselves slide down in the slippery volcanic sand and got down in no time. I was so surprised to see our cabins just minutes later.
Descending Acatenango
We had breakfast with the most delicious burritos and coffee before starting our descent. The rest of the group started descending before us since they hadn’t done the sunrise hike. One of the guides pointed us in the right direction and let us go ahead. He caught up with us later, running downhill as if it were the easiest thing in the world.
We were suddenly full of energy. The descent felt like a piece of cake. We started at 7.30 AM from base camp and were down before 9.30 AM. The efforts of the previous day already felt so far in the past. It seemed like more than 24 hours that I was struggling to climb up the same path I was now breezing down through.
Sitting in the shuttle that drove us back to Antigua, I felt grateful and proud of myself. I had truly pushed my limits. As someone who had never done an overnight hike, especially at over 3.600 meters of altitude, I had done a pretty good job. And I had memories for a lifetime with the coolest bunch of people I could have met. I didn’t have a single regret.
Acatenango Overnight Hike Facts
I did the Acatenango overnight hike with Wicho and Charlie’s. A friend recommended them to me, and I’m so happy I took the advice. This hike was slightly more expensive than with other agencies but for good reason. The agency is one of the few (maybe just two) with cabins at the base camp instead of tents and English-speaking guides.
The price of the hike included:
- Transportation from Antigua to the trailhead and back
- Bilingual guides (English and Spanish), with a guide for every 6/7 people
- Breakfast at the agency before departure
- Rental of essential hiking gear (jacket, headlamp, water bottles, hat, scarf, buff, gloves)
- Accommodation at base camp (shared and private cabins available)
- Lunch, dinner, and breakfast at base camp (all plant-based)
- Snack with a trail mix that you can make yourself at the agency from the mix bar
- Optional sunrise hike
In addition to the essential gear, you can rent extra stuff for small fees, including trekking poles, additional thermal layers, a backpack, merino socks, and more.
Furthermore, you need to pay extra for the optional sunset hike. You pay for everything when you get back from the hike. You’ll need to leave your passport or a deposit before departure, which you’ll get back when you return everything you rented and pay for any extras.
Acatenango Overnight Hike FAQ
Can anyone do the Acatenango hike?
I’m no expert, but I believe if you are even a moderately fit person, you can make it. That being said, I have heard of people giving up and turning back. So no, it’s not 100% for everyone, but most people can make it. In our group, there were people of nearly every age, at least between 18 and 50+.
Is there water on the trail?
No, you will need to carry all the water you need. You get water bottles that you can fill at the agency. You also need to carry 1 liter for cooking. The advice they give is to carry 4.5 liters of water. I returned with roughly 1 liter left, but it was not very hot.
Roughly half an hour from the trailhead, a guy was selling some drinks, like beer and coke. Other than that, there’s nothing along the trail.
Is there a porter service?
Yes, porter service is available, but you have to pay for it extra in cash. The cost depends on the weight of the backpack.
Do I need money during the hike?
You may need some money for the porter service if you want it and for toilets at the trailhead (5 quetzales). I made the mistake of not bringing any money, so I had to borrow it to use the toilet before starting the hike and when we got back to the trailhead.
Should I get trekking poles?
I would say yes. I only had one pole because I feel very weird and incapable of walking with two poles, but most people had them. Those who didn’t have them regretted it, especially on the sunrise hike. I was okay with just one pole.
Are there toilets at basecamp?
Unfortunately, no, and if you read about my condition, you may understand my struggle. Nature is the toilet, just don’t throw any paper. You can put everything in a bag and throw it in the trash. You get a shovel to dig a small hole for number two. This is probably the least pleasant part but honestly, it won’t matter in the grand scheme of things.
Are the optional hikes worth it?
Absolutely yes. I did both, and although they were tough, they were so worth it. If you feel fit enough, go for it. However, keep in mind that the guides will decide whether you can join the Volcán de Fuego hike at sunset.
Getting to and staying in Antigua Guatemala
The hike begins and ends at the agency in Antigua. Whether you choose Wicho & Charlie’s or another agency, Antigua is the main departure point for this hike. You can get to Antigua from Guatemala City or La Aurora Airport in just one hour and a half by shared shuttle.
I booked my accommodation in Antigua through Booking.com. Between the hike and going back and forth to Lake Atitlán, I changed accommodations three time, so I had the chance to try a few different places.
I stayed for nearly one week at Casa Landivar Hotel, two nights at Casa ELA, and one night at Hospedaje El Viajero Antigua. My favorite place was Casa ELA. The host was so welcoming and helpful, and the place was adorable, with a terrace where you could watch Volcán de Fuego erupting in the distance.
Here are more accommodation options.
Booking.comLastly, if you visit Guatemala, you should travel to Lake Atitlán and visit these charming villages. In Antigua, check out these beautiful colonial ruins and try some of these great cafés and these restaurants.
