Guatemala – Acatenango Overnight Volcano Hike
The Acatenango Volcano Hike in Guatemala has got to be one of the most well-known volcano hikes in the country and for good reason. During this overnight hike, you will be able to watch the Fuego Volcano erupt at a relatively close range while having the Augas Volcano around the corner. Both the Fuego and Aguas volcano are incredible sunrise photoshoot focal points. Yet such a reward is not without challenge. The elevation gain is similar to the Mt. Whitney Day Hike, but half the distance. This means that we are talking about some serious steepness, and I’m not going to sugar-coat it – this hike was hard. Plus, you climb so quickly that there are near-freezing temperatures at night.
The Acatenango Volcano Hike was one of the most incredible experiences of my trip to Guatemala, but it was not easy. Read through this post to see if this challenge/reward
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Preparation
I don’t want to scare you, but this hike is gnarly and proper preparation is going to be your key to success. In the following sections, I’ve broken down picking a company to go with, what gear to bring to Guatemala, and what it’s like at the morning meeting on the start day. If you’d like to jump right into what the trail was like, scroll down to my “Acatenango Volcano Hike” Section.
Picking a Company
I highly recommend (it might be a requirement) to go with an organized group. Not only are there many different trail options to take on the mountain, but they also ensure that you have the proper gear, and monitor weather/volcano conditions. There have been deaths on this volcano due to hypothermia, so it is best to be with a guide who knows the area and conditions. Plus, the guides are a joy to get to know and learn more about the area.
There are many outfitters in Antigua that run the Acatenango overnight tour but they each include slightly different items. Since it is overnight, pay attention to how you will be sleeping. Will the company provide tents for you or will you have to backpack in your own gear? This was one of the main reasons we ended going with Wicho & Charlie’s on this tour. Wicho & Charlie’s was one of the only outfitters that had the tents and structures already set up on the volcano, so we would only need to bring the gear necessary for ourselves. Looking back, this was definitely a good call as I was not in good enough shape to bring in backpacking items.
Wicho & Charlie’s is a cheaper alternative to some of the outfitters; likely due to the large group. If I were to do it again, I might go with an option that had fewer people in the group. Check out OX Expeditions, which is who we did the Pacaya Volcano Hike. Before you book, know the group size, price, what’s included, and what gear you can rent from the company.
At a Glance:
- Rating: 3 (out of 4) stars, would do it again!
- Intensity: Active clothes, hiking boots, extreme cold weather gear – jacket, beanie, gloves, etc.
- Location: Meeting in Antigua, 45-minute to 1-hour drive from the city
- Cost: $65/per person
- Distance: about 11 miles roundtrip, 5,150 ft elevation gain
- Restrooms: at Wicho and Charlie’s, at the trailhead, then in nature
- Timing: Overnight – 7 am on one day until noon the next day
Highlights:
- Watching Fuego erupt at eye-level
- Incredible sunrise views in multiple directions
- Hearing Fuego erupt throughout the night
- Various vegetation zone on the trail
- Overnight gear already located at the campsite with Wicho & Charlie’s
- Rewarding to summit
Lowlights:
- Very challenging hike with a self-selecting younger crowd
- Large group
- Likelihood of not being able to summit during the bad weather or reach Fuego
Prepping the Gear
Speaking of outfitters, be sure to read what each outfitter includes in their price, so you can pack accordingly before heading to Guatemala. The temperature at the top is near freezing at night, so you will want to bring packable layers with you. However, you will also be able to rent or borrow from the outfitters as well. Check to see if they include a beanie, gloves, scarf, outer pants, and etc.? If not, I would likely bring items from home as Antigua has limited options.
What about the food? I brought certain gummies and bars from home that I know I would crave on the trail. Also a few salty snacks. Wicho & Charlies provided a welcome energy juice shot, breakfast at the meeting, a packed vegetarian lunch with oatmeal included for breakfast, dinner at the campsite, and coffee/tea with oatmeal in the morning. I was thankful they provided a departure breakfast because the breakfast at our Airbnb was not yet available at that time in the morning. Most places only recommend bringing 3 liters of water and then one liter to give to the cooks. I easily went through 3 liters on the climb up, so consider bringing closer to 5 liters and one for cooking.
A couple of things you’ll definitely need:
- Headlamp
- Hiking poles (usually you can rent or borrow from the outfitter)
- Gloves for warmth
- Warm Hat
- Supportive Hiking Shoes
- Layers for warmth with windbreaker topper
- Water amount based on 5,000 ft elevation gain
- Cash for the mountain fee (if not included in your price)
- A minimalist mindset
Morning meeting and drive to Acatenango
The morning meeting at Wicho & Charlie’s started bright and early at 7:30 am. We got there a little late (about 7:45 am) and were the last ones there. This was disadvantageous because that means we were the last ones to see the gear room to pick out last-minute items (winter pants, beanie, buff, etc.). Luckily, Kelly (my travel partner) and I were both able to find items that fit. Water is available to fill up bladders or use in their reusable water bottles.
The pancake breakfast was delicious and we chatted with some fellow Americans about what to bring. There were pop songs playing as well as odd covers of songs. At 8:30 am, one of the employees gave a breakdown of the next 30 hours. The guides reminded us to have 50 quetzals ready for the entrance fee to Acatenango. After a final trip to the bathroom, we loaded into two large vans. Our group was about 26 people.
The drive took about 45-minutes to an hour. When we arrived, it was already a bit chilly. The trailhead is simply on the side of a road. There are a few vendors if you need any last-minute Gatorade type drink and a rustic bathroom with two stalls. One of our guides came around and told us to go ahead and set up our poles. I am glad we did because it was immediately steep with the somewhat slippery ground. Let’s get on the trail…
Acatenango Volcano Hike
The climb to Acatenango is steep. Like very steep. However, the vegetation changes drastically and there are breaks along the way. Looking back, there are three sections that jump out at me.
Section 1: Start to Ranger Station
Straight out of the gate, this hike is relentlessly steep. The first section zig-zags around different farms. Likely because of the farmland and because this is Guatemala, there are no switchbacks. It feels like we were climbing in a straight line up the volcano. The ground was moist, with small rocks on top, making it a bit slippery (felt very much during our trek down). This first part is truly a shock to the system as your body adjusts to the elevation, temperature, and sudden burst of exercise. The group would take a break every 10-15 minutes. Our guides were supportive and would let us know how many minutes to the next break. I found it funny how our updates were always in minutes and never in distance.
Section 2: Ranger Station to Lunch
You will climb into the trees, where there is “ranger station” and you pay your entrance fees. There are two drop toilets behind the main building structure and it will be your last toilet! After this stop, you are primarily climbing through the jungle. I do not recall much about this section on the way up as I was so focused on climbing. Step-by-step you’ll make it. If you have not yet begun to feel the elevation, you will in this section! There are more switchbacks through the trees and the group will begin to divide here. Keep an eye on the person in front of you – the trails diverge and there are different ways to get up the volcano. We hiked until there was a large clearing – lunchtime!
In this second section, the group spread out. It seemed like the average age of the group was 21, making me feel like an outsider for being in my late 20’s. They sped up the hill without a look back. At first, I felt like I needed to keep up with them, but I gradually gave up worrying about it. I was paying for this hike and I was going to go at my own pace and enjoy the experience of the trail.
Section 3: Lunch to Camp
I consider the section after lunch to be the final and most enjoyable. We climbed out of the jungle trees and into another landscape with pine (??) trees. Many of these trees were dead (insect? Fire? I am not sure), which gives you a spectacular view of the surrounding area and the beautifully dormant Augas Volcano. There are still very steep sprints through this section, but also a lot of gentle hills as you make your way around the volcano toward Fuego. The climb to camp is on loose gravel, which is devilish to climb but manageable with the promise of camp at the top.
In the final section, I embraced being so far back in the group that we had our own Wicho & Charlie’s guide. Our guide, Whitman, was a mere 19 years old, and a joy to talk to. We asked questions and learned that he hiked Acatenango 3-4 times per week. We also took pictures along the trail and took a moment to enjoy the scenery. Perhaps this was why I found the last section to be most enjoyable.
Arriving at Camp
There is nothing quite like walking on the flat ground of camp while watching Fuego erupt. It happened the moment we reached camp like a celebration. It was absolutely spectacular!! The type of flora around the camp is low shrubbery and a few gnarled trees. This makes for excellent viewing of the Fuego Volcano. At the camp, there was a large kitchen tent already set up, and an A-Frame Structure, and about 4 tents of various sizes. There are two fire pits, which were lit as the sun went down. Guides assigned sleeping arrangements, which were then finessed by the different cliques. Kelly and I were in the A-Frame structure with 5 other people.
I recommend getting a few good pictures of Fuego as soon as possible if you have clear weather. Volcanos tend to create their own weather, so especially in the rainy season when thunderstorms build every afternoon, there is a chance you may lose your view. This happened to us not long after we arrived. I wish I would have gotten a few more shots while everyone else was sorting out the sleeping arrangements.
Most outfitters offer a trek to Fuego from your camp for an additional fee. You must climb down Acatenango and over to Fuego. Usually, you hike to Fuego in the evening you arrive, then you summit Acatenango the next morning. We originally signed up to do Fuego as well, but due to the weather, our guides eliminated the option for anyone. I gotta say, it was a relief that Fuego wasn’t even an option. Not only was I beat, but I also didn’t have enough water to do both Fuego, summit Acatenango in the morning, and get down the next day. In the future, I’d like to do it again where I do not go in the rainy season and am in very good shape to do the double summit.
Overnight on Acatenango Volcano
The fog and clouds moved in quickly. Before I knew it, mist and howling wind surrounded us. There was not much to see and not much to do and still be comfortable in the cold. Kelly and I took a nap in our little A-Frame and recovered from the hike. Each person has a thick sleeping pad, sleeping bag, pillow, and two heavy sleeping blankets. With the cliques of our group keeping to themselves, I attempted to sit by the fire or watch the game of chess in the kitchen tent. I hate to say it, but I was bored and exhausted. A bit anticlimactic for how much effort it took to reach camp! Not all of travel is glamorous and this evening was evidence.
Dinner was a healthy serving of spaghetti in a simple tomato sauce, served with an optional mug of wine. And after dinner, it was time for bed. We still couldn’t see Fuego and our call time for a sunrise summit attempt was 3:30 am. And although we couldn’t see Fuego, we could hear it throughout the night – rumbling like thunder over the sound of the wind.
If you’ve never slept at 13,000 ft, be prepared to have some difficulty. As much of a sleeper as I am, it is difficult to get a good night’s rest at this elevation. I recommend putting the clothes that you are going to wear in the morning next to you inside the sleeping bag and wearing minimal layers to sleep in. I’ve heard that you should actually sleep in the nude… but I couldn’t quite bring myself to do it. Critically, make sure your phone is also somewhere in the bag with you or warm elsewhere. If it is cold throughout the night, it will drain the battery.
Sunrise on Acatenango
Everyone in our A-Frame set an alarm for 3:30 am, which was a chorus of 7 different sounds and music when it struck 3:30 am – hilarious. One brave guy in our A-Frame volunteered to get up and see what to do. Unfortunately, it was still cloudy and we were going to be unable to summit Acatenango. In our half-sleep daze, we were simultaneously bummed, but also happy to get to sleep another hour. At 4:30, the sky had cleared at our elevation (some clouds were still high above) and we could watch Fuego. After a quick restroom trip, we were walking through the camp when the most glorious explosion happened. Fuego catapulted vibrant red rocks in the air and down the sides of the volcano. In the partial darkness, it was a special show.
The sunrise on Acatenango made the entire trek worthwhile. We pulled the campfire chairs in a line and brought out camp blankets to watch Fuego. Our guides served us Coffee and tea, which warmed our hands in the pre-sunrise morning light. As the sun began to rise, I split my time waiting for Fuego to erupt and watching the sunrise with the stunning Aguas Volcano as a focal point to the scenery. It may be the only time in my life I experience three volcanoes at once.
Kelly and I went around the side of the volcano to take photos of the sunrise. My hands were freezing and craved the warm blanket, but my excitement for the view enormously overshadowed any moments of being uncomfortably chilled. Eventually, our guides had us pack up and head out.
The Return Trip
On the way down, we didn’t bother trying to keep up with the group. With two other ladies and one guy with a bad knee, we formed our own mini-group of fun. We kept a quick pace without running and chatted the entire way down the hill. We took pictures and had more than one person comment that their mom would be happy to actually get a picture of themselves (instead of just the scenery) during their travels.
Finally, we reached the beginning and ended up being about 20 minutes behind the main group, who had to wait at the vans. After immediately boarding the vans, we returned to Antigua. Returning items borrowed to Wicho & Charlie’s, we made our way back to our Airbnb for lunch, showers, and a well-deserved recovery nap.
Overall Thoughts: Acatenango Volcano Hike with Wicho & Charlie’s
While in Guatemala, I ended up hiking three volcanoes – Pacaya, Acatenango, and San Pedro. Each was incredible and very different. Acatenango was particularly challenging, yet particularly rewarding. The overnight element added a level of complexity but ended up being worthwhile in its close proximity to Fuego and views of Aguas. I also enjoyed being able to do both the hike up and down in the daylight. It is an incredible opportunity to be able to watch a volcano erupt, let alone while being as close as we were and sleeping on another volcano.
Due to how challenging the hike up and down are along with the freezing overnight element, I would not recommend this activity to everyone. However, with the proper preparation and hiking training, it is an extremely rewarding experience. I mean, how often do you get to watch the sunrise over one volcano while another one is erupting and also your standing on a volcano. It was nuts and amazing. I loved it.
Other things I did in Antigua, Guatemala:
- Chocolate Class at the ChocoMuseo
- Self-Guided walking tour of Antigua
- Coffee Plantation Tour with De La Gente
- Pacaya Volcano Hike with OX Expeditions
Have you hiked a volcano? I am kinda digging it now and want to climb more. Let me know in the comments below so I can check them out during my future travels!
Happy Travels,
Hanna
