Amy Stocklein
Everything that goes best with prosciutto shows up in this sandwich.
Just around the corner from A Pig in a Fur Coat, on South Brearly Street, chef Dan Bonanno, his brother Enrico, sous chef Jonathan Huttsell and co-owner Bonnie Arent have created a worthy Italian specialty market and carryout sandwich shop. Alimentari (“food” or “groceries” in Italian), lives up to its status as a market. The space is more modest than Tenuta’s, the large Italian grocery in Kenosha that the Bonanno brothers grew up helping their parents run, but the shelves are packed with specialty goods like San Marzano tomatoes, Tenuta’s own giardiniera, high-end chocolate and wine. The counter sells fresh pasta by the pound, charcuterie sliced to order, and nine sandwiches made from many of the specialties sold in the store.
The anatomy of any good sandwich starts with the bread. Madison Sourdough bakes a specialty Italian loaf for Alimentari every morning. There’s just a bit of a chew to the crust, which quickly gives way to a soft interior. The flavor is light and unobtrusive, allowing the sandwich ingredients to shine.
It also holds up to a sandwich like Italian beef, which is saying a lot. Thinly shaved, slow-roasted beef has been marinated in oregano and other spices and piled mountain high. The sandwich is served warm, loaded with giardiniera (mild or hot), a mix of pickled carrots, celery, cauliflower and peppers. It’s then dipped in juice from the beef. I’m impressed that the bread still had some chew to it, after the dip and the trip home from the market.
The other hot sandwich is the meatball bomber. There’s a lot of meatball in this sandwich, but it’s not the gigantic kind that’s hard to bite. A judicious amount of marinara means the meatball flavor isn’t lost. It’s finished with a sprinkle of mozzarella cheese and giardiniera for zip.
From the cold sandwich side of the menu, my favorite was the mortadella. The thinly sliced pork sausage (similar to bologna) comes with aged provolone and pickled eggplant, providing a nice blend of smoky and sour. Tuscan greens add a surprising heartiness to the sandwich compared to the typical romaine or iceberg lettuce. The kitchen has since added a truffle mortadella sandwich with shoestring fried potatoes and garlic aioli that I’m ordering on my next visit.
The simple prosciutto sandwich is also a standout. Paper thin slices of prosciutto are layered with thicker slices of fresh mozzarella and tomato (excellent even in October), and arugula adds a peppery bite. It’s finished, as a sandwich like this should be, with a drizzle of high-quality balsamic vinegar and extra virgin olive oil.
I was surprised at how much I enjoyed the porchetta sandwich. Slow-roasted pork tenderloin specked with fennel is joined by arugula, thin apple slices and goat cheese. Goat cheese is normally a deal-breaker for me, and it was generously applied. But it worked here.
Finally, the spicy soppressata sandwich is the essence of everything that’s good in a deli sandwich. Soppressata, with a coarser grind and more pork fat than salami, is joined by capicola, another version of cured pork. A few slices of smoked Muenster, Tuscan greens, hot giardiniera and ‘nduja mayo (’nduja is a spreadable spicy pork) set this sandwich apart.
I’m glad to see another Italian specialty market serving central Madison. I was sad when Fraboni’s closed its location on Regent Street. I’m glad the long-time Madison specialty deli is still holding court in Monona, but there’s certainly a place here for Alimentari and the top-notch quality the staff brings to every sandwich.
Alimentari
306 S. Brearly St.; 608-665-3650; alimentarimadison.com;
9 am-7 pm Tues.-Sat., 10 am-5 pm Sun.; $10-$15
